Books on Cosmetics and Toiletries

By Balsam S.M. and Sagarin Edward  

Cosmetics: Science and Technology

Volume one

cleansing creams and lotions,
emollient creams and lotions,
hormone creams,
baby toiletries,
hand creams and lotions,
skin lighteners and bleach creams,
suntan preparations,
beauty masks,
foundation makeup,
face powders,
rouge,
lipsticks,
eye makeup,
dentifrices, and
mouthwashes.  

Volume two

These are, in the order of appearance in that book, the following:

shaving preparations,
preshave and aftershave preparations,
depilatories,
shampoos,
hair-grooming preparations,
permanent waving products,
hair straighteners,
bleaches and related products,
hair conditioners and related products,
antiperspirants and deodorants,
aerosol cosmetics,
aerosol hair products,
bath preparations,
nail lacquers and removers,
fingernail elongators and accessory nail preparations,
eye lotions,
fragrance, and emulsified and solid fragrances.  

Volume three

contents chapters on the physiology of the skin and hair, the physiology of sweat, the use of colors in cosmetics, problems of

quality control, preservation and psychological testing, historical information, legal information: in short, all that the editors deem important on the

subject described in our title, Cosmetics: Science and Technology, other than the manufacture and formulation of the individual products, as covered in the first two volumes.

Reprinted . 2008

2128 Pages HB - 3 Volumes Set

We provide Harry's Cosmeticology, 2009 - revised edition. It is now available in -

• Two volumes - 185 x 260 mm, 7" x 10.5" 522
• Hardback - 444 pages

After a long period of being unavailable Harry's Cosmeticology, 8th Ed. is back. It is the same text as before but the book has now been split into two volumes.

 Harry’s Cosmeticology, one of the most popular cosmetic technical books of all time, has been updated by Dr. Martin M. Rieger, together with an international team of experts in different areas of the cosmetic science. 

• Section I. The Physiological Substrate Skin Hair The Nail The Eye The Mouth
• Section Ii.Formulation Approaches And Requirements Principles Of Cosmetic Product Development Regulatory Requirements Patents
• Section Iii. Specialized Ingredients And Processes Surfactants Emulsions Viscosity Controlling Agents Antioxidants Humectants And Moisturizers Preservation Botanical Extracts Specialty Lipids Aerosols
• Section Iv. Formulation And Performance Skin Care Products Specialty Skin Care Products Sunscreens Antiperspirants Antiacne Face Packs And Masks Skin Cleansing Products Shaving Preparations Facial Make-Up Manicure Preparation Specialty Nail Products Shampoos Hair Setting Hair Colorants Permanent Waving, Hair Straightening And Depilatories Oral Products Safety And Performance Stability
• Section V. Production Manufacturing Packaging

Just Arrived! 2010

Author: Anthony C. Dweck

Hardcover

This reference provides a concise overview for both formulator and marketer of much of the chemistry of the natural world—the materials that inspire and aid the discovery of new product concepts and markets. This volume looks at the entire portfolio of natural raw materials and explains in simple terms the chemistry, the folklore and traditional uses that nature has provided.

For the first time, information has been assembled on almost 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils and 600 botanical extracts, making this a useful handbook and companion for anybody who requires a quick overview of this subject. There is also a wealth of toxicological information assembled in this volume. The extensive section on color brings together knowledge and chemistry that is comprehensive and detailed and rarely found in one place. Topics include:

• Natural vegetable and fixed oils
• Natural butters
• Natural waxes
• Saponins (emulsifier)
• Natural Preservatives
• Minerals
• Botanical extracts
• Essential oils (fragrance)
• Natural actives
• Isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols
• Anti-irritants
• Natural color
• Gemmotherapy
• Legal Issues

Table of Contents :

Introduction

Personal Care Formulas features formulas from well-known companies in all main markets in personal care, from styling products and antiaging creams to color lipsticks and sunscreens.

A must-have reference for all cosmetic chemists, this reference features formulations divided into five main categories:

• Hair Care—styling products, shampoos, conditioners
• Skin Care—moisturizers, anti-aging
• Sun—sunscreens, sunless tanners
• Color—lipsticks, powders, eye shadows
• Miscellaneous—whitening

Organized in five formula sections it gives many different ideas to formulate in the best way, skin care, sun care, and color cosmetics.

A final miscellaneous area provides also precious formulas for antiperspirants/deodorants, ethnic products, body sticks and more.

In my opinion this agile booklet has to be present as consulting book in all the libraries of the worldwide efficient cosmetic chemists.

—P. Morganti
Editor in Chief
Journal of Applied Cosmetology

TABLE OF CONTENTS :

• Shampoos
• Conditioners
• Hair Sprays
• Hair Dyes
  
• Styling Gels
• Styling Mousse
• Others
  
• Sun Care
  
• Sunscreens
• Sunless Tanners
• Others

• Color Cosmetics
  
• Lips
• Foundation/Powder
• Eyes
• Others

• Miscellaneous
  
• Antiperspirants/Deodorants
• Ethnic Products
• Others
• Suppliers

Williams, S.D., Schmitt, W.H.

416 p., Hardcover

Original Price : Euros. 300 (Rs.18000) 

Special Indian REPRINT : Rs.2495 / =

TABLE OF CONTENTS  » 
Raw materials.
Hair-care products.
Skin-care products.
Color cosmetics.
Baby care.
Afro-Caribbean products.
Dental products.
Perfumery.
Personal hygiene products.
Antiperspirants and deodorants.
Regulation of cosmetic products.
Quality.
Environmental issues.
Appendices.
Index.

Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and other Esters

Edited by Hilda Butler, 1994

Paperback, 156 pages, 294 x 210mm, 8.5 x 12"

by Janusz Jachowicz, 2004

Paperback, 308 pages, 294 x 210mm, 8.5 x 12"

Analytical chemistry has played an important role in the development of the cosmetics industry, and continues to do so. It is an essential aspect of quality control and product safety and has led to the discovery of new cosmetic ingredients. This volume summarizes the many technologies employed by both analytic experts and cosmetic scientists in general, for the analysis and quality assessment of certain cosmetic raw materials.

Analysis of Polymers for Cosmetics

The objective of this monograph is to review the methods of characterization and analysis of polymers used in cosmetic products. The book is not designed to provide an exhaustive, up-to-date analysis of the field, but rather to give cosmetic researchers a basic overview of the types of analysis carried out for new and established products. Each method is illustrated with one or two examples of analysis in order to demonstrate the basic capabilities of each technique.

Hardback, 350 pages

160 x 240 mm, 6.5" x 9.5"

This book is an updated English-language version of the German original Reinungs- und Pflegenmittel im Haushalt, published in 2003 and sold out in an exceptionally short period of time.

In this modern, comprehensive and clear overview of the fundamentals of and the products for cleaning and care in the home, competent authors in science and industry describe not only the basics and economic relationships, but also the most common product categories such as dishwashing detergents, cleaners for hard and textile surfaces, and cleaning and care agents for floors, automobiles and leather, their ingredients and their mode of action. The most important materials and surfaces to be cleaned in the household are also covered. Particular emphasis is laid on hygiene in the home.

The content embraces everything from a short cultural history of home cleaning to the tenets of sustainable development. The aspects of ecological safety, eco-balances and consumer safety are treated thoroughly, as are the legal regulations and voluntary agreements of industry on cleaning and care agents in Europe.

Contents
i. Cleaning the household
ii. Ingredients of domestic cleaning and maintenance products
iii. Household materials and surfaces
iv. Dishwashing agents
v. All-purpose cleaners and scourers
vi. Cleaning agents for the kitchen, bathroom and toilet
vii. Cleaning and care products for special applications
viii. Shoe and leather care
ix. Cleaning and care products for the car
x. Ecological aspects
xi. Consumer safety
xii. Legal regulations and voluntary agreements

Botanicals have become widely used in many beauty products and for the purpose of aromatherapy. Phytochemistry-the chemistry of plants, plant processes, and plant products-is of great interest to those involved with both the medicinal and cosmetic properties of botanicals. Botanicals: A Phytocosmetic Desk Reference is the first reference to approach this popularly treated topic from a scientific point of view. It offers a clear, organized approach to plant constituents, properties, and cosmetic applications and covers the most common folkloric use of botanicals. By providing an overview of the most important botanicals in use today, this reference will be of great use to phytochemists, cosmetic chemists, herbalists, and aromatherapists.

Table Of Contents :

Authors: Linda D. Rhein, PhD and Joachim W. Fluhr, MD

Hardcover

Aging Skin presents leading-edge strategies to treat problems of aging skin. Current concepts are presented, along with fundamental research detailing the biochemical mechanisms underlying photodamage–the hallmark of aging skin. Based on the premise that aging and senescence occur due to a deterioration of cutaneous repair systems, topics covered include:

• Novel approaches using growth factors that regulate fibrosis to facilitate "cutaneous wound repair" while preventing "solar scar"
• Role of matrix metalloproteinases in the repair of photodamage
• Role of angiogenesis and lymphangiogenesis in response to photodamage and strategies to regulate these processes
• DNA repair and oxidative stress-resistant systems that aid in combating aging skin
• Hormonal influences on skin aging, benefit of hormone replacement therapy and role of nutrition
• Nonenzymatic glycation of matrix proteins due to oxidative stress-altering functionality and strategies to block such untoward reactions
• Success of current treatments–retinoic acid, dermabrasion, Botox, peels and fillers
• Design of the "optimal sunscreen" for prevention of photodamage
• New skin-whitening strategies to reduce age spots by influencing melanogenesis

• Sunscreens: Preventive Treatment of Photodamage and Premature Aging
• Retinoids and Retinoic Acid Treatment of Aging
• Chemical Peels, Dermabrasion, Botulinum Toxin, and Fillers in the Treatment of the Aging Face
• Mechanisms of Skin Whitening Agents
• Antioxidants for the Prevention of Photoaging
  
• Section 3 Aged, Dry Skin
  
• Mechanisms of Skin Whitening Agents
• Antioxidants for the Prevention of Photoaging
• Section 3 Aged, Dry Skin
• Characterization of and Strategies for Treating Dry Skin
• Technical Bases of Biophysical Instruments Used in Aging Skin Testing
  
• Section 4 Other Future Trends
  
• Nutrition and Skin Aging
• Strategies for Skin Aging, Focusing on Changes in DNA and Tissue Repair Systems
• Vitamins and Aging Skin Treatment
• Glycation and Oxidative Stress: Role in Skin Aging
• Growth Factors and Aging Skin Treatments
• Hormones, Metabolism and Skin Aging

Cosmetics Additives: An Industrial Guide describes about 4,000 cosmetics additives currently available for industrial use, compiled from information from 84 manufacturers and distributors.

The data included represent selections from manufacturer's descriptions, made at no cost to, nor influence from, the makers or distributors of the materials. Only the most recent information has been included.

Cosmetics Additives: An Industrial Guide lists the following product information, as available, in the manufacturer's own words:

• Company name and product category
• Trade name and product number
• Product description including properties and applications

Also included are a Trade Name Index and a list of Suppliers' Addresses.

Products are presented by company, and the companies are listed alphabetically. The table of contents is organized in such a way as to serve as a subject index to the book.

Special Indian Price : Rs.2295

By
Ernest W. Flick

More than 10,000 formulations are included in this magnificent and unique database. The database comprises the 8 acclaimed print volumes by Ernest Flick together with thousands of updated and new formulas, making it one of the most useful databases on the market. All formulations contain a listing on ingredients and percent weight of the ingredients. Most formulations also contain the suggested formulation procedure. Searching can be executed on ingredient, supplier, and cosmetic product. The comprehensive list of suppliers includes current contact information and web address together with a list of supplied ingredients. The list includes chemical description, functions of the ingredient in cosmetic products, suppliers of the ingredient, aliases for the ingredient, and a list of cosmetic products using the ingredient.

Audience:
Cosmetics formulators, scientists, chemists, and anyone involved with the manufacture of cosmetics. Will be effective for those interested in creating new products without "reinventing the wheel."

Contents :

Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Baby Products
Bath and Shower Products
Beauty Aids
Creams
Fragrances and Perfumes
Hair Care Products
Insect Repellents
Lipsticks
Lotions
Shampoos
Shaving Products
Soaps and Hand Cleaners
 Sun Care Products
Toothpaste

150 x 230 mm, 6" x 9"

Hardback, 1100 pages

VOLUME I :

Hair and Skin
- Research Update
- Structure and Chemistry of Human Hair
-Dermatology and Irritation 

Compatibility Testing in Human Skin
- Biophysical Test Methods 

Experimental Proof of Efficacy
- Toxicological Characterization
- Positioning and Application of Active Ingredients in Cosmetics
- Positioning and Application of Active Ingredients in Cosmetics
- Analytical Test Methods

VOLUME II

Hair Cosmetics
- Special Features of the Scalp
- Shampoos
- Hair Rinses, Conditioners,Treatments
- Hair Tonics
- Styling Products
- Hair Coloring Products
- Hair Bleaching Products
- Hair Shaping Products
- (Permanent Waves, Cold Waves)
- Skin Cleansing
- Bath Additives
- Liquid Soaps, Wash Lotions
- Soaps and Syndets
- Solvent-Based
- Formulas 
- Solvents 
- Mouthwashes
- Face Tonics (Face Lotions)
- Fine Fragrances
- Frictions 
- Repellents
- Antiperspirants / Deodorants
- Shaving Aids
- Oral Hygiene
- Teeth and Oral Cavity as Targets of Cosmetic Care 
- Toothpastes
- Gels
- Test Methods
- Denture Care Products
- Typical Formulas

VOLUME III

Skin Care
- The Human Skin
- Requirements on Skincare Products
- Differentiation of Skincare Products 

Emulsifiers 
Stabilizers
- Oil Components
- Selected Active Ingredients in Skin Cosmetics
- Sunscreen Formulas
- Color Cosmetics
- Eye Shadow, Face and Rouge Powders, Compact
- Creams and Sticks 
- Mascara
- Eyeliner Formulas
- Face Color
-Removers for Face and Eye Makeup
- Nail Color
- Cosmetic Pencils for Lips, Eyes and Nails 
- Aerosols
- Natural Cosmetics
- Lipid Products
- Sunscreen Formulas
- Color Cosmetics 

Preservation
- Antioxidants for Product Protection
- Cosmetics Production
- Technology

The 3 hardback volumes are sold only as a set in a presentation box.

Hardback, 296 pages

210 x 297mm, 8.5" x 12"

Hardback, 630 page

In both books the suppliers’ sections and the glossaries have been updated, but the recipes are as originally published. The subjects covered in volume 1 are: Face cosmetics; Nail products; Lip cosmetics; Body cosmetics; Eye cosmetics; and Perfumes and colognes. Recipes of existing products are provided.

Volume 2 contains over 570 formulations for cosmetic emulsions. Part I contains general formulations for miscellaneous creams, lotions, milks, and gels and also provides recipes for solubilizing and emulsifying particular ingredients. Part II is devoted to the formulation of the following cosmetic creams: All-purpose products; Moisturizing products; Cleansing masks, creams and lotions; Facial treatment products; Foundation, vanishing and day creams; Hand products; Emollient products; and Baby products.

These volumes contain detailed glossaries of the ingredient names used in the formulations, the addresses of ingredient suppliers and, where applicable, of their agents throughout the world. They include extensive bibliographies and indexes to the formulations, both in alphabetical order of formulation and of formulating company, and to the ingredients recommended in the formulations, both in order of chemical name and of trade name.

215 x 280mm, 8.5" x 11"

Hardback, 480 pages

215 x 280mm, 8.5" x 11"

Hardback, 506 pages

Authors: Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski

Hardcover

During the past ten years, thousands of new chemical raw materials and formulations have been developed, countless new marketing concepts have been tested and hundreds, if not thousands, of new cosmetic regulations have been enacted.

With the third edition of this best-selling chemistry textbook, the authors substantially update all the original material and include 21 additional chapters of brand new material to cover recent developments in the field of cosmetic science. Authors Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski re-emphasize the importance of providing introductory technical information to those who would like to improve their understanding of cosmetic science.

The four major sections of this book cover all important aspects of the cosmetic industry, including:

• Orientation, Tools and Terms
• Product Development
• Cosmetic Ingredients and Vehicles
• Product Testing

Table of Contents :

Introduction

Section I: Welcome to the Industry: Terms, Tools and Tips

• Your Career in Cosmetic Science
• Your Primer of Technical Terms and Chemical Jargon
• Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature
• INCI Names

Section II: Basic Cosmetic Science: Biology of hair and skin; Chemistry of Raw Materials

• Inside the Hair: An Advanced Hair Biology Model
• New Directions for Sensitive Skin Research
• Axillary Odor: Its Physiology, Microbiology and Chemistry
• Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin
• Surfactant Science
• Oils of Nature
• Understanding Emulsions
• Silicone Chemistry
• Creating Colorful Cosmetics
• Pigments: Achieving the Effect
• The Science of Reactive Hair Care Products
• The Essence of Fragrance
• Common Scents
• Microorganisms and Personal Care Products

Section III: Product Development: From Beaker to Bottle

• Lab Notebooks: The "Write" Stuff
• Laboratory Notebooks: Valuable Indicators of Intellectual Property
• Laboratory Batching of Cosmetic Products
• Successful Product Development
• Formulating Cosmetic Emulsions: A Beginner's Guide
• The Aging of Polymer-Stabilized Creams: A Rheological Viewpoint
• Gels and sticks
• Aerosols for Apprentices
• Encapsulation Technologies: Tailored Solutions for Delivery
• What Every Formulator Needs to Know about Fragrance
• Fragrance in Emulsion and Surfactant Systems
• Fundamentals of Formulating Hair Care Products
• Introduction to Shampoo Thickening
• Innovations in Hair Styling Technology
• Understanding "Mild" Cosmetic Products
• Formulating for Efficacy
• Formulating for Sensitive Skin
• The ABCs of SPF
• Self-Tanners: Formulating with Dihydroxyacetone
• The Dry Facts About Wet Perspiration
• Improving the Appearance of Facial Pores
• A Light-Diffusing Concept for Antiaging Effects in Makeup Formulations
• Cosmetic Product Packaging
• Emerging Technologies and the Future of Cosmetic Science

Section IV: Does It Work: Product Testing, Regulatory Compliance and Claims Support

• Evaluating Raw Materials and Finished Products
• Preservative Efficacy Testing: Accelerating the Process
• The Century of Progressive Regulation
• Mind Over Matter: Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Issues Facing the Future
• The Regulatory Interface: When is it a Cosmetic and When a Drug?
• Correlating Porosity and Tensile Strength of Chemically Modified Hair
• In Vivo Quantitative Evaluation of Gloss
• Evaluating Shampoo Foam
• What You Should Know About Testing on Human Hair
• Evaluating Shine on Hair
• Index

• Softcover
• 491 Pages
• Published 2011

This collection of peer-reviewed articles scientifically examines antiaging from a functional, genomic, and physiologic standpoint while presenting cosmeceutical, antioxidant and moisturization topical agents and nutricosmetic oral agents to achieve the one goal desired by all to be perceived as beautiful!

Skin Care and Aging looks at the behavior of aging skin and how this can be modified with cosmeceuticals, antioxidants, moisturizers and nutritional supplements. The latest in the Formulators' Resource Series, this 47-chapter volume presents the best techniques and ingredients to achieve desired antiaging effects. The industry's top researchers present studies of specific active ingredients that impact the skin's cell defenses and other mechanisms.

Topics include:

• Skin Pigmentation
• Aging Skin
• Genomics and Aging Skin
• Novel Ingredients
• Antioxidants and Skin Care
• Skin Moisturization
• Nutricosmetics and Skin Health
• Expert Review

  "This book is loaded with all types of evidence, from in vitro investigations to complex in vivo efficacy studies. Subdivided in scientifically clear-cut sections, readers will be able to follow the latest of the latest in genomics (e.g., sirtuins), skin moisturization (e.g., aquaporins) and anti-aging (e.g., anti-oxidants and nutraceuticals) from well-respected authors."

  —Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
  Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science, JW Solutions

Just Arrived!

Author: Wen Schroeder, et al.
Hardcover

• Hardcover
• 384 Pages
• Published 2011

In the past several years, interwoven in the broader movement for sustainable, healthy, and environmentally friendly business practices, the personal care and cosmetic industry has vigorously invested in and launched an expanding stream of new "green" products. However, while the word green has been in use as a universal umbrella term for all things natural and/or organic, there remains confusion as to what exactly constitutes organic or natural. What regulations apply to your products? How do you maintain a high level of innovation while complying with regulations and standards? What private industry certifications give substance to your marketing campaigns? Within this book lie the answers to these questions and much more.

As one of the first comprehensive technical reference works for the cosmetic and personal care industry, this indispensable practical handbook will serve formulators, marketers and business decision-makers looking to navigate smooth sailing in each of the major areas of scantly charted green waters.
Learn processes and purposes for the formulation of skin care, hair care, color cosmetics and fragrances.

Fundamental technical concepts and guidelines for tracking developing information will be presented for each of the following topics:

• Formulation, testing and green ingredients selection sourcing
• Regulatory, labeling, claims and marketing
• Certification programs
• Sustainable business practice
• Sustainable environmental policy/practice

Contents

About the Authors vii

Dedication/Acknowledgments xi

Introduction xiii
The Evolution of Green in Market and Mind
Evolution of Global Personal Care Product Regulations, Product Standards and Certification Schemes—Going Green & Sustainable

Formulating Cosmetics with Green Ingredients

Formulating Eco-responsible “Green” Skin Care Products
Formulating Green Personal Care Products —Hair Care

Formulating Green Personal Care Products —Color Cosmetics

Formulating Green Personal Care Products —Fragrance
Green Product Packaging Options and Considerations
Global Sourcing and Supply Chain

Reducing Carbon Footprint in Manufacturing Personal Care Product

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Chapter 5

Chapter 6

Chapter 7

Chapter 8

Chapter 9

Chapter 10

Index


About the Author :

Wen Schroeder, RAC, president, SEKI Cosmeticals LLC, has more than 20 years of personal care product development and pharmaceutical research experience with 30 US patents and numerous foreign filings. Schroeder has degrees in Pharmacy and Environmental Science specializing in Environmental Toxicology and Environmental Law. She is an RAC-certified Regulatory Affairs professional experienced in the regulation of cosmetics, food, drugs, medical devices and chemical/product life cycle management. Schroeder writes and teaches many professional courses on cosmetic and sunscreen product development, as well as FDA and EPA regulations.

Other authors include T. Joseph Lin, Luigi Rigano, Karl Lintner, and Steve Herman.

CHAPTER 1—Cosmeceutical Regulations—A Global Overview.

CHAPTER 2—Searching for the Cosmeceutical Connection

CHAPTER 3—RNA Interference and Therapeutic Applications

CHAPTER 4—REACH and In vitro Alternatives: Corrosive Potential Testing

CHAPTER 5—Creating Effective Claim Support Packages

CHAPTER 6—Mind Over Matter: Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Issues Facing the Future

CHAPTER 7—Formulating for Efficacy

CHAPTER 8—Improved Delivery and Efficacy with Dimethyl Isosorbide

CHAPTER 9—Peptides in the Pipeline for Antiaging

CHAPTER 10—Peptides, Amino Acids and Proteins in Skin Care

CHAPTER 11—In Vitro Approaches to Antiaging Testing

CHAPTER 12—It's Never Too Late: DNA Repair and Photo-aging CHAPTER 13—Mutations in Mitochondrial DNA as Principal Aging Factor

CHAPTER 14—Protecting Skin from UV Oxidative Stress with a New (Cys-Gly)2 Dimer Peptide

CHAPTER 15—Modeling UVB-induced Formation of Photoproducts in Human Keratinocytes CHAPTER 16—Protecting the Genome of Skin Cells from Oxidative Stress and Photoaging

CHAPTER 17—A DNA Repair Complex to Decrease Erythema and UV-induced CPD Formation

CHAPTER 18—Watermelon Survival Strategies for Skin DNA Protection

CHAPTER 19—Measuring Reactive Oxygen Species in Skin with Fluorescence Microscopy

CHAPTER 20—Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In vivo in Humans

CHAPTER 21—Sirtuins: A Breakthrough in Antiaging Research

CHAPTER 22—Stimulation ofDermal and Epidermal Metabolism: An Approach to Antiaging

CHAPTER 23—Biomimetic Tripeptides for Improved Dermal Transport

CHAPTER 24—Examining an Exfoliation-Promoting Enzyme for Cosmetic Applications

CHAPTER 25—Perfluoropolyether Phosphate and Skin Renewal: The Therapeutic Index

CHAPTER 26—Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermal Cohesion

CHAPTER 27—Systemic Evening Primrose Oil for Irritated Skin Care

CHAPTER 28—All's Fair in the Indian Fairness Market

CHAPTER 29—Developing a Long-lasting Tyrosinase Inhibitor from Morus alba L

CHAPTER 30—Skin Whitening via a Dual Biological Pathway

CHAPTER 31—Inhibitory Effects of Phyllanthus emblica Tannins on Melanin Synthesis

CHAPTER 32—Grapefruit Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin and Skin

CHAPTER 33—A Direct Connection to Melanocytes

CHAPTER 34—Self-tanning Based on Stimulation of Melanin Biosynthesis

CHAPTER 35—An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin

CHAPTER 36—Internal Occlusion: A New Mechanism of Skin Moisturization

CHAPTER 37—γ-Poly Glutamic Acid: A Novel Peptide for Skin Care

CHAPTER 38—A New Sodium Hyaluronate for Skin Moisturization and Antiaging

CHAPTER 39—Texture Analysis to Quantify Skin Care Product Efficacy

CHAPTER 40—Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation of the Skin's Mechanical Resistance

CHAPTER 41—Antiaging Effects of a Skin Repair Active Principle

CHAPTER 42—Strategies of Antiaging Actives in Sunscreen Products

CHAPTER 43—Emollients with Activity for Sun Care Applications

CHAPTER 44—The Syngeristic Anti-irritant Effects of (-)-α-Bisabolol and Ginger

CHAPTER 45—Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch

CHAPTER 46—Recent Advances in Slimming Treatments

CHAPTER 47—A Novel Strategy for Achieving Efficacy in Deodorants

CHAPTER 48—Applicability of t-Flavanone to Treat Female Pattern Baldness

CHAPTER 49—CLA Glutathione and Sodium DNA for Reducing Hair Loss

CHAPTER 50

• Softcover
• 415 Pages
• Published 2007

Biotechnology and cosmetics have become inextricably connected in the first decade of the 21st Century as formulators search for ingredients that are not only novel, but developed in different, more efficient ways. According to Larry Rheins, column editor for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, "... the biotechnology revolution is here, forever changing how we interact with the world around us ... [and] at the end of the day will provide consumers with superior products for their ever-changing and special needs."

Pulling from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine's most popular articles written by world-renowned experts, Biotechnology in Cosmetics: Concepts, Tools and Techniques brings 37 papers from the last five years together in one all-encompassing volume. Topics include

• Biotechnology and the Skin
• Biotechnology and Aging
• Biotechnological Developments in Ingredients
• Flavors, Fragrances and Pigments
• Regulations and Testing in the Biotechnology Age
• Expert Review

  "This informative collection provides professionals with invaluable knowledge from well-known experts."

  —Rachel Grabenhofer
  Senior Editor
  Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
  
  Table of Contents :

• Introduction
• PART I: Introduction
  • Chapter 1. Biotechnology Impacting Cosmetic Science: Altering the Way Cosmetics Are Perceived?
  • Chapter 2. Advances in Phytochemistry: Rx and Non-Rx
  • Chapter 3. Novel Approaches for Molecular Biology and Skin Care Products
  • Chapter 4. Dermagenetics
• PART II: Biotechnology and the Skin
  • Chapter 5. Pathways for Skin Penetration
  • Chapter 6. Quantifying Skin Relaxation and Well-Being
  • Chapter 7. Who is Mast T. Langerhans?
  • Chapter 8. Neuroimmunological Activities of Keratinocytes
  • Chapter 9. Metalloproteinase Inhibitors
  • Chapter 10. Advances in Stratum Corneum Biology and Understanding of Dry
  • Chapter 11. Advances in Dry Skin Stratum Corneum Biology and Moisturization
  • PART III: Biotechnology and aging
  • Chapter 12. Extracellular Matrix and Aging: A Review of Mechanisms and Interventions
  • Chapter 13. Wrinkle Free and Beyond
  • Chapter 14. Delivering on Antiaging Potential
  • Chapter 15. Pollution and Aging: Antioxidants for Skin
  • Chapter 16. Pep Talk: Slowing Down Aging
  • Chapter 17. Peptides in the Pipeline for Antiaging
  • Chapter 18. A New Sodium Hyaluronate For Skin Moisturization and Antiaging
  • Chapter 19. Antiaging Effects of a Skin Repair Active Principle
  • Chapter 20. Strategies of Antiaging Actives in Sunscreen Product
  • Chapter 21. Actives Activate Skin Care Market
  • PART IV: Biotechnological Developments in Ingredients
  • Chapter 27. Protecting the Skin from Environmental Stresses with an Exopolysaccharide Formulation
  • Chapter 28. Examining an Exfoliation-Promoting Enzyme for Cosmetic Application
  • SECTION A: From the Sea
  • Chapter 29. Manufacturing Microalgae for Skin Care
  • Chapter 30. Targeting Deep-Sea Microorganisms for Discovering New Polysaccharides
  • SECTION B: Flavors, Fragrances and Pigments
  • Chapter 31. Flavors of the Future: Biotechnology, "Intelligent" Flavors and Beyond
  • Chapter 32. Synthesis and Authentication of Natural Vanillins Prepared by Fermentation
  • Chapter 33. The Future of Fragrance: Toward a Biotechnology of Scent Creation
  • Chapter 34. Pigment Ideas from the Animal and Microorganism Kingdoms
  • PART V: Regulations and Testing in the Biotechnology age

Just Arrived!

Author: Zoe Draelos, MD and Peter T. Pugliese, MD

• Hardcover
• 674 Pages
• Published 2010

In order to effectively administer and formulate skin care treatments, one must first understand the function and structure of the skin. Physiology of the Skin, Third Edition provides this information and addresses the biochemistry and free radical damage that changes young skin into old skin, with a specific focus on both extrinsic and intrinsic issues. This volume also provides an understanding of skin care products and their utilization in maintaining healthy skin. Disease states, including acne, eczema, photodamage, psoriasis and more, are discussed. Also, the new topical, injectable, and device products for skin rejuvenation are presented to build on the basics of skin physiology.

This latest edition takes the reader on a learning journey beginning with the formation of skin, moving on through the onset of puberty and adolescent issues, and finally discussing maturity and issues pertaining to perimenopausal and menopausal skin. Topics include:

• Skin structure
• Skin function and biochemistry
• Skin needs in disease states and maturity
• Photoaging mechanisms and sun protection
• Cosmeceuticals and procedures for aging skin

• Softcover
• 329 Pages
• Published 2002

Cosmeceuticals: Active Skin Treatment is an expanded reference covering the controversial issues of consumer protection, product safety and industry responsibility with regard to treatment cosmetics. Drawing from the expertise of international industry experts, this reference:

• discusses AHA efficacy and modes of action
• investigates the anticellulite efficacy of various actives
• reviews ceramides and hyaluronic acid as skin-care ingredients
• summarizes the role of application frequency in drug dosing
• shares efficient schemes for formulating treatment products
• discusses formulating for sensitive skin
• covers special care considerations for ethnic, infant and elderly skin
• covers safety and regulatory issues

New chapters focus on areas such as amphoteric hydroxy complexes,
pollution and aging, whitening efficacy, and substantiating antiaging product claims.

This book in 33 chapters reports the opinion of both the industry and the FDA on whether the separate cosmeceutical category is necessary or not.

This way ends this innovative book on cosmeceuticals that reports many interesting topics and ideas useful both for students in chemistry and/or in medicine who desire to better understand the meaning of this unusual created word fusing together the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical.

Read the full review from the Journal of Applied Cosmetology

—P. Morganti
Editor in Cheif
Journal of Applied Cosmetology

Table of Contents :

Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing : How to Set up a Scientific Study in Skin Physiology
Fluhr, Joachim W. (Ed.)

1st Edition., 2011, XI, 272 p. 27 illus., 14 in color., Hardcover

History and Progress of Objective Skin Analysis.
- Legal Aspects.
- General Aspects of Cosmetic Testing: Testing Lab.
- Research Staff.
- Testing Population.
- Testing Devices and Methods.
- Factors Influencing Measurements.
- Study Design.
- Testing Report.
- Practial Aspects of Cosmetic Testing: Test Settings.
- Compliance Control.
- Practical Aspects of Skin Disease Evaluation.
- Practical Aspects in Chart Form.

• Softcover
• Approx. 350 Pages
• Published 2011

Pulling from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine's most popular articles written by world-renowned experts, Hair and Ethnic Hair brings 30 papers from the last five years together in one all-encompassing volume.

Topics include:

• Hair loss and treatment
• Ethnic hair and scalp disorders
• Hair color
• And more!

Edited by Perry Romanowski. Perry has worked in the beauty industry for more than 15 years and is currently vice president of Brains Publishing. He holds a BS in chemistry and an MS in biochemistry from DePaul University. Perry is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and instructs the continuing education course titled Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry.

Authors include:

• Peter Kaplan, PhD
• Masami Suzuki
• Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
• Anthony O’Lenick
• Eric Leroy
• Timothy Gao, PhD
• Luigi Rigano
• Randy Schueller
• Perry Romanowski

This innovative reference highlights the uses of delivery systems in cosmetics, analyzing new approaches for obtaining sophisticated cosmetic products and examining the most common methods for enhancing the skin's penetration properties. Covering a wide range of established and burgeoning techniques

Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems:

• describes the skin's effectiveness as a selective barrier to the penetration of compounds
• charts the observation, evaluation, and instrumental analysis of the biological effects of cosmetics on the skin
• discusses certain problems with product stability that hinder optimal performance
• reviews in vivo and in vitro methods for quantifying permeants within the skin
• summarizes the methods of preparing novel emulsions and vesicular carriers
• focuses on the properties and applications of PFC-based gels
• shows how cyclodextrins can be used in cosmetics
• profiles the formation and properties of particulate systems
• and more!

With over 1200 references, tables, equations, drawings, photographs, and micrographs, Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems will benefit cosmetic chemists, scientists, and technologists; research and development personnel in cosmetics and fragrance industries; pharmaceutical formulation, colloid, physical, and fragrance chemists; surfactant scientists; fragrance technologists; skin physiologists, pharmacists and pharmacologists; biochemists and biologists; dermatologists; toxicologists; and graduate students in these disciplines.

Contents

1. Skin and Cosmetic Vehicles
   • Cosmeceutics and Delivery Systems
   • The Skin and Its Permeability
   • Enhancement of Skin Permeation
   • Skin Hydration

    

2. Evaluation of Cosmetic Products
   • Assessing the Bioactivity of Cosmetic Products and Ingredients
   • Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products
   • Quantitation of Penetrant Molecules Within the Skin

    

3. Emulsions and Surfactant Association Structures
   • Multiple Emulsions
   • Highly Concentrated Water-in-Oil Emulsions (Gel Emulsions)
   • Fluorocarbon Gels
   • Vapor Pressures of Fragrances After Application: Some Fundamental Factors

    

4. Vesicular and Molecular Systems
   • Liposomes
   • Liposomes and Follicular Penetration
   • Cyclodextrins in Cosmetics

    

5. Particulate Systems
   • Microcapsules in Cosmetics
   • Applications of Polyvinyl Alcohol Microcapsules
   • Delivery by Nylon Particles

Index

Author: Howard I. Maibach, MD
Softcover

448 Pages
Published 2011

Expert Review :

"Your goal is to avoid creating a product that might lead to problematic skin, and this book is the first step in achieving it.”

—Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science, JW Solution

Cosmetic dermatologists want to understand the physiology of skin—notably skin conditions they consider problematic and in need of treatment—whereas product developers would like to create a cosmetic product that treats this problematic skin in order to change its appearance. They are therefore all starting with the same problem in order to get effective, though respectively different, treatments.

A Dermatological View: From Physiology to Therapy is designed to satisfy both sides of the problematic skin equation. Written in partnership with numerous colleagues, Dr. Howard I. Maibach’s aim is ever toward medical advancement and sustained product development in his areas of primary clinical specialty and research-based interest, including dermatopharmacology, allergic contact dermatitis, and dermatotoxicology and pathology. The information in A Dermatological View is purposed to both illuminate and to instruct. Topics include:

TABLE OF CONTENTS :

Section One: Normal Skin—Physiological and Methodological Aspects

Section Two: Damaged Skin—Physiological and Methodological Aspect
— 2.1 Mechanical Damage
— 2.2 Chemical Damage
2.2.1 Enhanced Skin Penetration
2.2.2 Sensitive Skin
2.2.3 Allergic and Irritant Contact Dermatitis
— 2.3 UV-damaged Skin

Section Three: Cosmetic Therapies for Troubled Skin
— 3.1 Acnetic Skin
— 3.2 Anti-aging, -itch, inflammation, and Antioxidants
— 3.3 Skin Moisturizers
— 3.3 Skin Moisturizers
— 3.5 Woundhealing
— 3.6 Translating Skin Physiology into Cosmetic Products
Index


AUTHOR INFORMATION :

Howard I. Maibach, MD, is professor of dermatology at the University of California (San Francisco) School of Medicine. His laboratory has been interested in and has published extensively on dermatopharmacology and dermatotoxicology.

Contributing authors include:

• A.V. Rawlings
• Ali Alikhan, MD
• Bobeck S. Modjtahedi
• Christine M. Lee
• Cora MacPherson, PhD
• Danyi Quan
• Elsa Jungman, MD
• Farzam Gorouhi, MD
• Francisca Kartono
• Gabriel Wu
• Haw-Yueh Thong, MD
• Hilda Maibach
• Hongbo Zhai, MD
• Howard I. Maibach, MD
• Ivy Lee
• Jackie Levin
• Jeanette M. Waller
• Jurij J. Hostynek, PhD
• Marc Paye, PhD
• Miki Yokata
• Miranda A. Farage, PhD
• Myeong Jun Choi, MD
• Naissan O. Wesley, MD
• Nicholas Golda, MD
• Norm V Gitis
• Raja K. Sivamani
• Robert Baran, MD
• Rupa Pugashetti, MD
• Sara Farahmand, PhD
• Sara P. Modjtahedi
• Sarika Saggar
• Shannon A. Watkins, MD
• Shawn H. Nguyen
• Sirui Jiang
• Thao P. Dang
• Véranne Charbonnier, PhD

"Provides a wide range of information on the composition, utilization, and evaluation of colorants and pigments in food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products. Tabulates key data for food, drug, and cosmetic colorants by Color Index Numbers. Thoroughly describes the relationships between coloring reactions."

Basic definitions;
food colouration;
drug colouration;
the colouration of cosmetic products;
the colouration of food, drugs and cosmetics in the public eye;
product development;
safety and quality;
analysis;
data sheets of the colourants for food, drugs and cosmetic product.

".provides a wealth of information on composition, properties and evaluation of colorants that may be used for coloring of foods, drug and cosmetics. It also includes information on which colorants are approved in EU countries, in some other European and non-European countries."
---Acta Veterinary

".provides a great deal of information about colourant use, international approval and quality assurance techniques. The book is essential for any laboratory engaged in colour formulation and is likely to become a standard reference in the respective industries and in reference and university libraries."
Food Quality and Preference

This volume describes the role of colloids in cosmetics and personal care, highlighting the importance of fundamental research in practical applications.

Of interest to electrochemists, physical and surface chemists, materials scientists, and physicists.

List of Contributors.

1 Colloid Aspects of Cosmetic Formulations with Particular Reference to Polymeric Surfactants (Tharwat F. Tadros).

Abstract.

1.1 Introduction.

1.2 Interaction Forces and Their Combination.

1.3 Self-Assembly Structures in Cosmetic Formulations.

1.4 Structure of Liquid Crystalline Phases.

1.5 Driving Force for Formation of Liquid Crystalline Phases.

1.6 Polymeric Surfactants in Cosmetic Formulations.

1.7 Polymeric Surfactants for Stabilization of Nanoemulsions.

1.8 Polymeric Surfactants in Multiple Emulsions.

1.9 Polymeric Surfactants for Stabilization of Liposomes and Vesicles.

1.10 Conclusions.

References.

2 Formulation and Stabilization of Nanoemulsions Using Hydrophobically Modified Inulin (Polyfructose) Polymeric Surfactant (Tharwat F. Tadros, Martine Lemmens, Bart Levecke, and Karl Booten).

3 Integrating Polymeric Surfactants in Cosmetic Formulations for the Enhancement of Their Performance and Stability (Tharwat F. Tadros, Martine Lemmens, Bart Levecke, and Karl Booten)

4 Application of Colloid and Interface Science Principles for Optimization of Sunscreen Dispersions (Lorna M. Kessell, Benjamin J. Naden, Ian R. Tooley, and Tharwat F. Tadros)

5 Use of Associative Thickeners as Rheology Modifiers for Surfactant Systems (Tharwat F. Tadros and Steven Housley).  

6 Cosmetic Emulsions Based on Surfactant Liquid Crystalline Phases: Structure, Rheology and Sensory Evaluation (Tharwat F. Tadros, Sandra Léonard, Cornelis Verboom, Vincent Wortel, Marie-Claire Taelman, and Frederico Roschzttardtz).

7 Personal Care Emulsions Based on Surfactant–Biopolymer Mixtures: Correlation of Rheological Parameters with Sensory Attributes (Tharwat F. Tadros, Sandra Léonard, Cornelis Verboom, Vincent Wortel, Marie-Claire Taelman, and Frederico Roschzttardtz).

8 Correlation of "Body Butter" Texture and Structure of Cosmetic Emulsions with Their Rheological Characteristics (Tharwat F. Tadros, Sandra Léonard, Cornelis Verboom, Vincent Wortel, Marie-Claire Taelman, and Frederico Roschzttardtz).

9 Interparticle Interactions in Color Cosmetics (Lorna M. Kessell and Tharwat F. Tadros).

10 Starch-Based Dispersions (Ignác Capek)

11 In Vivo Skin Performance of a Cationic Emulsion Base in Comparison with an Anionic System (Slobodanka Tamburic).

12 The Impact of Urea on the Colloidal Structure of Alkylpolyglucoside-Based Emulsions: Physicochemical and In Vitro/In Vivo Characterization (Snezana Savic, Slobodanka Tamburic, Biljana Jancic, Jela Milic, and Gordana Vuleta)

13 Models for the Calculation of Sun Protection Factors and Parameters Characterizing the UVA Protection Ability of Cosmetic Sunscreens (Bernd Herzog).

Index.